The following are the instruction sheets included with our Hunslet kit. In copying them to these web pages we have had to omit some of the printed formatting, although we have been able to add some colour. If you would like to receive the printed version, please send 4 first-class stamps, or 6 IRCs. (These sheets were revised in mid-1997. If you have the previous edition just quote your model's serial number to receive this latest edition in printed form - no charge.)

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Thank you for ordering our 0 Gauge Hunslet locomotive kit. We hope that the kit meets with your approval and that our service has been satisfactory - if not please let us know. If you need further details about the model or any other information we will always be happy to help.

If this will be your first 0 Gauge locomotive, we are sure that you have made a wise choice and that your new Hunslet will soon be running on your railway.

If you are an "old hand" in 7mm, we hope that you enjoy building the Hunslet; it makes a pleasant change from the demands of more complex metal kits.

Happy Shunting!


This product is not a toy and is not suitable for young children. It contains sharp edges and toxic materials. Track, rolling stock and power-supply are not included.

This kit contains all the parts needed to build a finely-detailed working scale model locomotive, but does not include glue, paint, transfers, additional weights.

Some of the smaller components in this kit are delicate mouldings. Please unpack and handle them carefully. Since these notes were written we may have made some packing changes. If parts are supplied loose please ignore instructions to remove them from the moulding runners.

DO NOT OIL the chassis unit - use ONLY the special grease supplied - read the notes about lubrication in section A.

Please include these notes with the model if you sell it.

This model can be built very quickly if desired, but it is well worthwhile taking some time and care with the construction, so that an optimum result is achieved. We have written these notes with newcomers to model-making in mind, and have tried to cover all the essential points without over-stating the obvious. More experienced modellers will probably have their own ideas, but are advised to read all through the notes before going their own way.

We have tried to produce a model which is enjoyable and trouble-free to build. Please let us know if anything is unclear - we welcome your comments and suggestions.

KEY: The symbols used in these notes are :

# refers to the component part numbers shown on the exploded illustration.
highlights a caution or warning.
indicates possible modifications.
refers to an explanatory footnote.
highlights other points of interest.

These notes are divided into 5 sections:

A. Information For Owners - running, maintenance and storage of the finished model. This page should be kept in the box with the model and included if you sell it.

B. Adhesives, Paints, Tools - some notes on materials and methods.

C. Assembly Sequence - the "words and music" on which bit goes where.

D. Parts List and Exploded Diagram.

E. Additional Information and Update - odd points omitted from the notes and/or arising from customer feedback. If some time has elapsed since you obtained the kit, please send for the latest version of section E, or see our internet web site at

The web site also includes some pictures of finished models, and contributions from other modellers about our Hunslet kit.


This model is for use only on 2-rail systems using a nominal 12 volts DC power supply.

Unless otherwise stated this model is intended to be run on O Gauge (32.0 mm gauge) track with pointwork clearances set to the Gauge O Guild fine-standard dimensions. It may be possible to run without problems on other tracks.

At shunting speeds in yards and sidings, the model will negotiate curves down to 20 in. (500 mm) radius. In practice the minimum working radius is usually determined by other factors such as buffer-locking between wagons.

For continuous running, curves should not be less than about 30 in. (750 mm) radius to avoid undue wear in the working components.

Replacement Parts :

The working chassis unit and all the body parts can be supplied separately if required, but we are unable to supply the wheels or axles separately. If any of the body parts are damaged during assembly you may return them for a free replacement, quoting the model serial number shown on the box.

The saddle-tank parts are supplied pre-drilled for handrails. If you would have preferred to receive them undrilled, please return them for a swap.

12-month Warranty on the chassis unit :

In the unlikely event of the chassis unit becoming faulty within 12 months from the date of purchase it will of course be repaired or replaced free of charge. If the chassis unit has been built into a finished model, we can only accept it for repair on the basis that the value of the model does not exceed the current price of an unassembled kit. Please contact us first before sending, so that we can advise on packing, etc.

Working Chassis Unit :

Please read through these notes before building the chassis unit # 8 into your model. Remove any packing and other parts packed with the chassis unit before attempting to run it.

Do not attempt to turn the wheels by hand. To adjust the position of the wheels, rotate the upper end of the motor shaft.

Test the chassis unit on the track. Adhesion and electrical pickup will be improved when the unit is carrying the full weight of the finished model. This can be simulated for testing purposes by adding a few coins or washers.

The motor has been carefully matched to its mounting for optimum performance. This results sometimes in a motor which is rotated slightly from a square-on position in the chassis. This is not a fault - the screws sealed with yellow paint should not be disturbed.

Routine Maintenance :

The chassis unit has been lubricated, tested and inspected before leaving our workshop and should run for many hours before needing any servicing.

The motor is a maintenance-free unit sealed for life and should never need any attention.

Other parts may need a little lubrication from time to time. USE ONLY THE SPECIAL GREASE SUPPLIED for this purpose, as other oils or grease may attack or soften the moulded components.

Apply the grease very sparingly on a needle or stiff wire to :

Axles adjacent to the frame bushes while the motor is running. Power can be applied from an electric wheel-cleaning brush or by attaching small clips to the central pickup terminals. Using a lint-free cloth, wipe off any surplus grease, leaving just a thin film on the axles where they run against the pickup strips.

Crankpins where they rotate in the back of each wheel, and between the coupling rods and the face of each wheel.

Gears. Just a little, as excess grease on the gears may get thrown off onto the track.

Do not use any sort of oil or grease to lubricate the buffers. If the working action becomes "sticky", dust a little talc powder onto the buffer shanks.

Wheel Cleaning :

If the model is run in dusty conditions, the wheel rims may become dirty, leading to problems with electrical pickup and erratic running.

To clean the wheels, run the rim against a cotton- bud lightly dampened with "3-IN-ONE" or similar household lubricating oil until all the soiling has been loosened, and finish with a dry cotton-bud. Wipe off any oil which strays onto the wheel centres or other parts.

DO NOT use this oil to lubricate the working parts - use only the special grease supplied.

If there is an excessive build-up of dirt on the wheels it should first be scraped away with a suitable tool. (A length of plastic moulding runner filed to a chisel end will avoid damaging the rims.)

The use of abrasive cleaners such as a fibreglass burnishing pencil, emery paper or abrasive rubber blocks is not recommended - the particles shed may become embedded in the working components, leading to permanent damage.

Do not use any form of degreasing agent (for example white spirit) or solvent to clean the wheels as this will promote rapid rusting.

Controllers :

Variable-pulse-width controller systems are not necessary and may cause overheating of the motor. The drive is geared 40:1 to give smooth responsive control with conventional variable- voltage controllers. If the model has not been over-weighted, the maximum current consumption (when slipping) is less than 350 mA, so special high-power "O Gauge" controllers are not needed.

Motor Replacement :

In the very unlikely event of a failed motor, it is replaceable from below the chassis (after removal of the wheelsets and pickups); it is not necessary to dismantle any part of the body. We can do this work for you (see Faults and Repairs above), or we can supply the necessary replacement parts and guidance notes.

The Mashima motors used are very reliable. Even so, each one is carefully tested before use. (At the time of writing (May 1997), we have been producing these models for over 4 years, and so far remain unaware of a single case of motor failure.)

Gear-mesh adjustment is possible without removal of the motor or wheels. This is very unlikely to be necessary - do not disturb the adjusting screws.

Outdoor Use and Storage :

This model can be used out of doors on fine days but cannot be expected to withstand extreme climatic conditions.

Do not leave the model standing for long periods in hot sun, especially if behind glass.

As with all models having steel wheel rims, these may rust if the model is stored during the winter months in unheated outbuildings. Some protection is possible by oiling the rims (see Wheel Cleaning above), but wherever possible the model should be stored indoors when not in use.

Do not store the model for long periods with the buffers fully compressed, for example by storing the box on end with the model loose inside. The working action of the buffers may be harmed.

Sources of Further Information :

A detailed history and drawing of the Hunslet 15" engines is in the September 1986 issue of "Model Railway Constructor". Your local library or model railway club should be able to show you a copy.

The preview edition (November 1995) of "Rail Model Digest" contains a review of this kit and some ideas for further detailing. Available from PO Box 2, Chagford, Devon, TQ13 8TZ. £5.95

The majority of industrial locomotives were finished in a plain black livery, usually with red buffer beams and often with red coupling rods. Sometimes the reversing rod was also red.

But some industrial owners adopted very colourful painting schemes. The Ian Allan colour album "Industrial Steam" is a rich source of ideas. ( ISBN 0-7110-2230-5, 1994, £10.99 from most bookshops).

There are two Hunslet 15" engines in this book. On page 43 "Airedale" is finished in fully lined LMS red. This was the first of the class and differs slightly from later engines. Note the curved corners on the buffer beams, larger cap on the front sandboxes, and beading around the cab sidesheets.

On page 46 "Jubilee" has acquired an additional set of steps, and is painted apple green with yellow lining. Page 25 shows a pair of Hunslet 16" engines, which are very similar. These have green panels on black, with red lining.



"Just glue and paint needed to complete" it says on the box. But there is a wide range of different adhesives and paints to choose from in your local model shop, and it is possible to spoil this model by using the wrong ones. So for newcomers to modelmaking we have listed below our recommendations in some detail.


For the main structure of the model we advise using a traditional polystyrene cement, which is applied to the mating surfaces before uniting them. This produces a stronger bond than a liquid solvent. We recommend "Humbrol Precision Poly" cement which comes in a handy squeeze bottle with a fine metal applicator tube and is much cleaner in use than tube cement.

For some of the smaller parts a liquid solvent such as "Humbrol Liquid Poly" or "Slater's Mek-Pak" is more convenient, and here the method is different. The parts are held firmly together dry while the solvent is applied along the back of the joint using a fine brush.

At the time of writing "Slater's Mek-Pak" is our preferred solvent. It is less agressive than some other solvents and is therefore more forgiving of excess application. But solvent compositions may change due to Health and Safety regulations - use adequate ventilation and no smoking with all of them.

Some of the detail parts (whistle, smokebox door handles, and coupling hooks) are moulded in an unbreakable material for which the above adhesives are not suitable, and for these we recommend cyano gel adhesive - "Superglue Gel". This is also used to fix the working buffer heads.

Do not use ordinary thin superglue.

A filler such as "Humbrol Model Filler" may be needed for the joint in the saddle tank and in case of accidents. "Milliput" 2-part epoxy filler is suitable for larger gaps and for fixing any additional weights. Also needed is a little white pva wood glue ("Resin-W" or similar) to fix the coal supplied for the bunker.

Do not allow any excess cement to stray onto the surface of the mouldings. If this does happen do not attempt to wipe it off as this will make matters worse. Leave it for at least 24 hours to harden, after which time it can be filed or sanded off and the surface reinstated if necessary with filler. Any severely damaged body parts can be replaced free of charge.


It is worth giving some thought to the final painting and finishing of the model before beginning to assemble it. For a complex livery you may want to paint some of the parts first - the interior of the cab for example. Keep paint away from the glueing surfaces - "Humbrol Maskol" is useful for this purpose.

Before any painting the model should be cleaned by wiping over with a plastic-safe cleaning fluid on a lint-free cloth to remove all grease and finger marks. "Humbrol Enamel Thinners" is suitable for this. Ensure that it is completely dry before over- painting. Avoid the use of ordinary white spirit for cleaning purposes, it can cause a fine crazing of the plastic surface which promotes subsequent solvent attack.

Keep cleaning fluids away from the wheel rims and axles to avoid rust problems.

Wipe the model very gently when cleaning, as furious rubbing will generate a static charge on the plastic surface, attracting dust particles as fast as you try to remove them. If dust and static do become a problem, they can usually be blown away with an air-blast from an empty airbrush, bicycle pump or similar. Clean air-duster aerosols are also available from electronics suppliers. Dust-absorbing tack-cloths are another useful aid (from car body shops).

If available we prefer pure I.P.A. (isopropanol) for cleaning. It is quick-drying and completely safe on plastic materials, so it can be freely used for degreasing purposes. It can be obtained from electronics suppliers.

The plastic materials used in this model require great care in the choice of suitable paints :

We recommend traditional model paints such as "Humbrol Enamel", which are safe on plastics, and can give excellent results if a good quality artist's brush is used from a new tin which has been well-stirred. They can also be airbrushed very successfully using the proper enamel thinners (and good ventilation). Enamels may require a few days to harden fully, so keep the model covered to protect it from dust.

The coupling rods are moulded in an unbreakable material and are a special case. Enamel paints may not adhere to them well, so if painted (usually red) rods are required, we suggest using a water-based acrylic model paint such as "Tamiya" or "Humbrol Acrylic Colour". A satin red can be produced by trial mixing of gloss and matt reds. Two coats will usually be needed. It is not possible to remove the coupling rods from the wheels for painting, so it will be advisable to mask around them with paper or masking tape. For this reason it may be easier to paint the rods before assembling the body onto the chassis unit.

Caution : Some modellers prefer to use aerosol cans of car spray paint, which are convenient and quick. But despite the claim on some modern cans that these paints are safe on plastic materials, all of them, including primers and acrylics, contain solvents which will attack or damage the material used in this model, so great care is essential.

If you intend using car aerosols, and have not used them on plastic kits before, we strongly recommend that you first try them on a simple inexpensive kit. A crazed or fuzzy finish may be acceptable on an ordinary open wagon in everyday condition, but is not usually wanted on a polished locomotive. The car sprays available from Halfords motorist shops seem to be less damaging than some other types.

Aerosol enamels are also available from model shops and d.i.y. stores. Some of these are safe on plastics, some are not. They usually take longer to dry than car sprays.

If you do decide to risk aerosols, observe the warnings on the cans, and make sure that you first test the actual cans you intend using on the back of one of the mouldings. We cannot accept responsibility for models damaged by aerosol paints - if in any doubt use Humbrol!


Only the usual small modelling tools are needed to build this model. The basic essentials are :

Sharp craft knife Fine paint brush

Tweezers A few small drill bits

Flat needle file Round pointed needle file

A hand-held pin vice for the drill bits gives better control than hand or power drills. Small flush-cutting electronics snips are useful for cutting parts from the moulding runners and general trimming.

Masking tape, "Blu-Tack" and a selection of rubber bands will all prove handy. Some fine abrasive sanding paper is supplied in the kit.

The materials and tools mentioned above should all be available from a good model shop, or from the sources indicated. Most good toyshops also stock some of the Humbrol items. For electronics items, the MAPLIN-MPS catalogue (from branches of W H SMITH) lists these and many other useful modelling tools and supplies.

If you are new to modelling and need further advice or a helping hand, your local model railway club should be able to help, and most model railway exhibitions include model building demonstrations.

The Gauge O Guild has many active local area groups where newcomers to O gauge will be made very welcome. The Guild offers many services and assistance to members. We will be pleased to forward membership enquiries.

revised 4-97 (c) 85A MODELS



Please read all through these notes and clarify any points of doubt before proceeding. Some parts are handed right and left or could be fitted the wrong way round. The # symbol refers to the part numbers shown on the exploded illustration.

exploded view

Clear a suitable working space before starting. The plastic mouldings are easily damaged if jumbled together on the bench with sharp tools.

First examine and identify each of the mouldings. They are produced in precision tools and should be clean and generally flash-free with sharp square edges. Occasional surface streaks are normal and will disappear under the paint finish.

A little final fettling with a sharp knife or a fine file may be needed to achieve the best fit. Always try parts together dry before applying any cement. Time spent ensuring accurate close-fitting joints will be well repaid.

The assembly sequence in outline is :

1: Fit the tank filler cap, assemble the upper and lower tank parts and leave to set.

2: Fit cab detail, assemble the upper and lower cab parts and leave to set.
3: Fit the door hinge bar to the smokebox.
4: Assemble the brake hangers to the brake rigging. Detach from the chassis when set.
5: When set hard, fettle the tank joins.
6: Fit the tank handrails.
7: Fix additional weights if required.
8: Main assembly: Fix cab to chassis unit and add reversing rod. Fix tank to cab. Fix smokebox. Fit the safety valves.
9: Painting.
10: Fit buffers, couplings, smokebox door handles and whistle.
11: Re-fit the brake rigging, leaving it detachable if desired.
12: Finally fill the bunker with coal.

It is a matter of debate whether the tank handrails should be fitted before or after assembly of the upper and lower tank parts. In the first edition of these notes we suggested fitting them before; in the light of comments from customers we now recommend fitting them after the tank has been assembled.

This avoids damaging them when fettling the tank joins. The disadvantage is that it is then more fiddly to apply adhesive inside the assembled tank when fitting them.

1. Saddle tank / boiler:

Try the upper saddle tank # 1 and lower boiler # 2 mouldings together noting the correct way round (the open end of the saddle tank is at the rear firebox end of the boiler) and fettle the joints if necessary to ensure a snug fit.

First cement the tank filler cap # 16 in place on the filler housing at the front of the upper moulding. The hinge (represented by two small moulded "ears") should face towards the dome.

Run cement generously into the rebate along the edges of the upper moulding, and more sparingly along the edges of the lower moulding. Bring the two mouldings together. Check that all is correctly aligned and then gently but firmly squeeze the two parts together so that a thin bead of cement emerges all along the joint lines. Do not attempt to remove this cement now. Hold the pressure for a while until the cement holds, then stand the assembly on end to set.

Put the assembled tank to one side and leave for at least 24 hours to harden fully.

2. Cab / bunker :

Try the upper cab # 6 and lower cab/bunker # 7 together and fettle as required to achieve a good fit. It will usually be found necessary to file or scrape a little from the rear edge of the coal plate # 6a on the upper moulding and to round off its rear corners to obtain a proper fit in the bunker. When satisfied with the fit put the upper half to one side while the lower cab is dealt with.

Try the lower half of the cab/bunker onto the rear of the chassis unit # 8 and fettle to fit. This will usually mean slicing a little from the bottom ends of the firebox location ribs # 7a on the front of the cab. Note the correct fit of the chassis frames in the shallow recess on the underside of the cab floor, but do not fix it yet.

Check the fit of the coupling hook # 9 in its pocket on the rear buffer beam and open out the slot as required but do not fix the hook yet. Do the same for the front hook on the chassis unit # 8.

Carefully cut the reversing rod # 10 from its moulding runner and try it in the slot in the front of the lower cab. It may be necessary to thin the rod slightly by gently scraping or filing the back to achieve an easy fit in the slot. The back of the rod is the side having a round spacing boss at its forward end. Put the prepared rod to one side for the present.

If necessary open out the 4 holes in the cab floor with a no. 65 or 0.9 mm diameter drill bit for the doorway grab rails # 11. Handle the grab rails carefully and trim them to 25 mm overall length. Try them in place and check that the top brackets fit the recesses in the back of the cab sides. Note that these doorway grab rails are handed; those with the shorter top bracket go on the bunker side of the cab doorway. When satisfied with the fit, cement them in place behind the cab sides. Liquid solvent is more convenient for the floor fixing.

Fit the bunker front # 12 in place across the cab, locating it against the ribs on the cab sides. This part is more easily fixed with liquid solvent. Fix it to the floor only at this stage, so that the cab sides can still flex a little when fitting the upper cab.

Cement the boiler backhead # 13 in place over the two short ribs inside the front of the cab. (If a firebox glow effect is desired, first paint an orange patch behind the open firedoors.)

Apply cement to the rebates in the bunker and in the notched part of the front of the lower cab and fix the upper cab in place. The joints in the cab sides can then be closed up by applying liquid solvent from inside on a fine brush, but avoid using too much solvent where the sides reduce to a thin edge. Also brush some solvent around the top of the backhead.

Turn the cab over and brush solvent inside the bunker from below to complete the fixing of the bunker front. Leave the cab to harden fully.

3. Smokebox :

Cut from the plastic rod supplied a short piece to form the centre bar of the door hinge on the smokebox # 15. There is sufficient for several attempts at cutting a piece which fits snugly between the upper and lower hinge brackets. Check that it is correctly aligned vertical and spaced away from the door a little way. Fix it in place with a little liquid solvent top and bottom, and put the smokebox aside to set.

4. Brake rigging :

While the tank and cab are setting the brake rigging is prepared. Doing so at this stage reduces the need to handle the finished model later. Assembly of the rigging is a fiddly job, but is not difficult if tackled without hurry.

If preferred, we can supply a ready-assembled brake rigging at extra cost.

First cement the horizontal brake cross-shaft # 19 in place across the chassis unit # 8. It fits between the trunnions # 8b below the rear frames under the cab. The longer crank arm on the shaft should be on the left-hand side of the engine (looking forward from the cab) and should point backwards and slightly down. (Take care if the engine is upside-down.) The correct result should be that the shorter crank arms are pointing downwards and slightly forward.

Remove the rigging moulding # 21 from its moulding runners by cutting the infeeds as close to the runner as possible.

The infeed at the ends of each cross-bar should then be gently trimmed back, to leave a peg about .020" (0.5 mm) long # 21a, which will locate in the hole in the back of each brake hanger # 22. Ensure that the cut ends are clean and square. Gently trim flush the infeeds at the fork-ends, and remove any flash from between the forks with a folded piece of the abrasive paper. Handle the delicate rigging with care - subsequent installation on the engine will strengthen it.

The three pairs of brake hangers # 22 are handed left and right. Those for the right-hand side of the engine (looking forward from the cab) have two moulded dots on the back, those for the left-hand side have a single dot. In both cases the dots are at the upper end of the hanger. Make sure that the hangers have been correctly identified before proceeding.

We have moulded a spacing peg on the back of each brake hanger which is intended to stabilise it against the frame. This will not be noticed on the rear four wheels, but should be removed from the hangers for the front two wheels, where it would otherwise show.

The entire rigging should be assembled dry before applying any cement.

Turn the motor shaft until both coupling rods are below the wheel centres. Assemble dry the lower ends of the hangers onto the rigging moulding. They should locate firmly enough to handle with care, if loose a little "Blu-Tack" will hold them.

Check again that the hangers are correctly arranged, and gently place the rigging between the wheels. Now dry-fit the upper end of each hanger onto its frame spigot # 8c. Carefully ease the rigging towards the rear of the engine until the brake blocks are close to (but not quite touching) the wheels, and correctly aligned with them, and dry-fit the fork-ends over the crank arms on the cross-shaft # 19.

When you are satisfied with the alignment, apply liquid solvent at the ends of each cross-bar to fix the hangers to the rigging, but do not cement any of the other fixings at this stage. Leave to set.


When set, the assembled rigging can be removed from the chassis by gently easing each hanger from its spigot on the frames. Put the assembled rigging safely to one side.

5. Fettle saddle-tank joints :

If the saddle tank has now fully hardened the tank joints can be fettled. First carefully file away the cement which emerged along the joint lines when they were assembled. A coarse file used very gently will be more effective than a fine file which may clog.

If filing reveals any gaps in the joint, they can be filled with model filler which must then be allowed to set hard. Be sparing with the filler as the solvent content may damage adjacent areas. Large gaps should be filled a little at a time.

Now sand the joints with a piece of the abrasive paper supplied, which should be used well wetted with soapy water or paraffin . This is essential to prevent it clogging and so scoring the surface. Take care not to produce a flat on the tank side, the upper and lower curves should blend smoothly. With care the joint can be rendered virtually invisible, but if any gaps do remain they can be further filled and the process repeated.

Also sand over the drilled handrail holes to remove any raised burrs from around them, so that the handrail knobs can sit flush to the surface.

Wash off all traces of the sandings and leave the saddle tank / boiler assembly to dry.

Paraffin (premium grade domestic kerosene) gives the best results but is obviously messier to use and needs to be wiped dry afterwards. Use soapy water to wash off the sandings and all traces of paraffin.

DO NOT use petrol, derv, white spirit or turps.

6. Tank handrails :

Check that the two long upper tank handrails # 4 fit easily in the drilled holes without any distortion and apply a little cement on the inside to secure them. Repeat with the two shorter lower handrails # 5.

Some customers have chosen to fit metal handrails and knobs instead of the delicate moulded ones supplied. This is a matter of preference of course, and the holes are there ready - although they may need enlarging slightly. The moulded handrails have the advantages of being virtually exact scale size; they are easy to fit; and the paint will not rub off them.

If required we can supply a set of metal handrails and knobs at extra cost.

Carefully cut the two tank-filler grab rails # 3 from their moulding runners and try them in the holes on each side of the tank-filler. Cement them on the inside, spacing them away from the tank with a scrap of thick card while the cement sets.

Finally, drill through the tank-filler cap # 16 with a no. 75 or 0.55 mm drill bit and push in the blackened pin supplied to represent the central knob. Bend it over inside the tank to secure it.

7. Weighting :

Up to 6 oz. (170 gm.) of additional weight can be added if desired to increase adhesion and haulage capacity. It is not recommended that more than this be added as this may overload the motor or cause distortion or wear of the working components. It is essential that the wheels should be able to slip freely on all rail surfaces if forward motion is restrained.

To maintain the balance of the engine we recommend that only about 75% of any additional weight should be placed in the tank/boiler space. This means a maximum of 4.5 oz. (125 gm.) in the tank, with a further 1.5 oz. (45 gm.) placed in the bunker space. This will give a total finished running weight of about 12 oz. (340 gm.).

Weight is easily placed in the tank space (clear of the motor in the firebox), but as this area will be inaccessible after assembly it is essential that any weights are firmly fixed in place, for example with "Milliput" epoxy putty. The bunker space remains accessible from below after assembly.

Scraps of roofing lead are the usual form of weight. Other ideas might be: lead shot; glass marbles; old coins; clean gravel.

More coffee ?

8. Main assembly :

Read the notes about the working chassis unit # 8 in section A of these notes before proceeding with the main assembly process.

Try to avoid handling the chassis unit by means of the wheels or motor.

Apply cement along the top edges of the rear frame sides on chassis unit # 8 and fix the cab in place. Check that it is correctly located over the frames. Then apply a little liquid solvent along the joins in the footplate and push the cab forward while the cement is soft to close up the joins.

Check that in fixing the cab the rear frames have not been distorted - there should be just-detectable side-to-side freedom in the rear wheels. A trial on the track will confirm that all is well.

Locate the prepared reversing rod # 10 through the slot in the cab front, and cement the forward end in place at the top of the lever # 8a which rises from the footplate. The side of the rod with the round spacing boss fits against the lever. Fix the rod inside the cab with liquid solvent.

Apply cement around the inside edge of the open end of the tank assembly and fix it in place over the location ribs on the cab. Do not cement the base of the firebox to the footplate yet. Allow the joint to set fully before proceeding.

Apply cement around the location diameter inside the smokebox and alongside the location ribs for the smokebox on the footplate. Ease the tank assembly upwards slightly and fix the smokebox to it clear of the ribs on the footplate, then bring the smokebox down over the ribs. Hold the smokebox firmly in place while the joints set.

With just the tip of a fine brush carefully run a little liquid solvent along the join between the base of the firebox and the footplate. Do the same into the corners of the various rivetted angle plates: around the base of the smokebox; joining the saddle tank to the smokebox; and joining the tank to the cab; so that these take on the appearance of being all in one piece.

Cement the vertical brake operating linkage # 20 in place. The fork-end fits over the end of the crank arm on the previously fitted cross-shaft # 19. The tab on the upper end locates against a small rib inside the frame below the cab.

Fit the two safety valves # 17 in the outer pre- drilled holes on the dome. The holes are intended to be a tight fit, but may need to be enlarged slightly. If necessary use "Blu-Tack" to hold the safety valves vertical while the cement sets.

This completes the main structure to the painting stage. Allow at least 24 hours for the model to harden fully before proceeding.

9. Painting :

The engine is now ready for painting in the desired colours. See the notes about livery and further sources of information in section A.

Before any painting, read the notes on cleaning and painting in section B.

The whistle, smokebox door handles, buffers and couplings are moulded in an unbreakable material which is best left unpainted (self-colour black), and these are therefore fitted after painting.

For many purposes the self-colour of the frames will be entirely acceptable. It is not recommended that the chassis unit be disturbed by removing the wheelsets, so if it is desired to paint the frames behind the wheels this will have to be done through the wheel spokes. The brake hanger spigots # 8c should be protected with "Humbrol Maskol".

Allow any painting to dry completely before proceeding. This could take several days.

10. Buffers, couplings, etc :

Lightly smear the end of the rubber pad on each buffer # 23 with cyano gel adhesive and push it gently into its housing, without fully compressing it. Insert it with only just enough pressure to ensure a proper bond, and hold it there for a moment until the glue has set. Using too much glue will spoil the working action, as will compressing the rubber pad while the glue is wet.

Do not use ordinary thin superglue which will soak into the rubber pads, setting them solid.

Assemble three coupling links # 24 onto each coupling hook # 9 by twisting them open and chaining them together. It may be necessary to open up the hole in the hook a little so that they can swing freely. Fix the couplings in place in each buffer beam with cyano gel, or by heat-sealing behind the beam with a small soldering-iron.

Try the smokebox door handles fitting # 14 in the centre of the smokebox door and open up the hole if necessary. Fix it in place using cyano gel. The handles usually point downwards.

Shorten slightly and trim square the top of the whistle # 18 and fix it in place in the small hole on the dome with cyano gel. The small side lever should face towards the cab.

11. Brakes :

Re-fit the previously assembled brake rigging to the engine dry, and check that the centre axle has adequate sideplay without fouling the brake hangers. If necessary gently file the backs of the centre hangers to clear. The brake rigging can be left detachable if desired for easier maintenance and wheel cleaning, but it is then somewhat fragile.

Alternatively, ease each hanger in turn from its spigot, apply a little cement, and fix it back in place. Use liquid solvent to secure the fork-ends to the crank arms on the cross-shaft.

12. Coal :

Apply white pva wood glue to the coal space in the bunker and add some of the washed coal supplied. Drip some well-diluted pva over it and leave to dry out.

Admire your finished model. We hope that you have enjoyed building it and that it will prove a worthy addition to your railway.

Copyright 85A MODELS (c) 1998



exploded view








upper saddle tank



lower tank / boiler / firebox



tank filler grab rails



upper tank handrails



lower tank handrails



upper cab



lower cab / bunker



working chassis / frames unit



coupling hooks



reversing rod



cab doorway grab rails

2 pairs


bunker front



boiler backhead



smokebox door handles fitting






tank filler cap



safety valves






brake cross-shaft



brake operating linkage



brake rigging moulding



brake hangers / blocks

3 pairs


working buffers



coupling links


blackened pin

1 ( for tank filler knob )

supply of plastic rod

1 ( for smokebox door hinge )

bag of washed coal for bunker


special grease


fine (1000 grit) abrasive paper


photograph of completed model


set of instructions


sturdy storage box





( i.e. the crumbly yellow flakes of padding material inside your parcel. The material we are currently using looks very much like potato crisps! So keep it away from young children and dispose of it carefully. When we next re-order this, we will attempt to get it in a more sensible colour.)

It is possible for this material to mark the surface of plastic models and mouldings after prolonged contact. Seal it inside a polythene bag if you want to use it as packing for your model.


We are now on the Internet. You can email us at: or visit our web site at:

We hope to make this site a general forum about our Hunslet model, with the latest hints and tips for construction, modifications, additional detailing, prototype information, etc. If you have something you would like to pass on to other modellers, please let us have it (by post br email). We also hope to have a picture gallery of finished Hunslets, so if you have a photograph of your model which you would like to show to other modellers, please send it in - we will return it undamaged. All contributions to the site will be duly credited, of course, unless you say otherwise.

We shall be including as many links to other sites of 0 Gauge interest as we can fit in - if you have your own site or know of a useful one, please let us know.

This site is currently under construction, so if your first visit is a little disappointing, please try again soon.


A note for experienced modellers intending to modify the electrical connections:

If additional wiring to the pick-up assembly is required, make any new connections to the unused forward-facing tags. Soldering to the rear-facing tags in situ can spoil the working of the pick-ups on the centre axle. If the existing wiring to the rear tags needs to be disconnected, this should be done by cutting the wires, not by unsoldering them.


This model is designed and intended for domestic and hobby use. If required for commercial display purposes please ask for our advice.

If this model is run at full speed for long periods (for example on a club test-track, or as part of a window display), the motor will become noticeably warm. Although we have not had any cases of motor problems due to overheating, if heavy use is anticipated you may want to bear the following points in mind :

Do not exceed our recommended maximum running weight of 12 oz. (340 gm), or run the model continuously around curves of less than 30 in. (750 mm) radius. Do not load the engine with a train so heavy that wheel-slipping occurs.

Attend to regular maintenance and wheel cleaning, and ensure that the gears and axle bushes are properly lubricated with the special grease supplied. Do not attempt to lubricate the motor - it is maintenance-free.

Many model controllers have a maximum output well in excess of the nominal 12 volt rating. For continuous running a regulated power supply is preferable.

Leave an adequate air-space around the motor when adding weights in the tank space, and avoid blocking completely the air-flow through the tank.

If modifying the cab-to-chassis fixing, or adding weight below the cab, avoid blocking the air-flow under the cab floor into the motor space.

The blind hole in the base of the chimney can be drilled through into the smokebox space to increase air-flow.

Painting the motor matt black will help to keep it cool.

If this model is to be used only for normal intermittent layout running and shunting purposes, air-flow and motor cooling will not need to be considered.


In designing this model we opted for a one-piece assembly to give the maximum strength to the finished structure. This does not mean that the motor becomes inaccessible - see the notes about motor replacement in section A.

But some modellers prefer to be able to dismantle the body of the model from the chassis, and this is not difficult to arrange. The smokebox should be fixed permanently to the chassis, to provide a clip-in front fixing for the separate one-piece cab/tank assembly.

The cab/tank part is then fixed to the rear frames with a bolt through the cab floor. A rectangular piece of thick plastic card (with a hole for the bolt) will need to be fixed between the rear frames. If infrequent dismantling is expected, a self-tapping screw directly into the plastic of the cab floor will be adequate; a thick piece of plastic card cemented to the underside of the cab floor will give more purchase for the screw.

Avoid over-tightening the fixing screw, which could distort the frames, causing the rear axle to bind.

It may be desired to leave the upper cab detachable to allow access to the cab interior. Bear in mind that this modification will reduce the rigidity of the finished body structure. It will be necessary to cut away the front of the upper cab to clear the top of the backhead when engaging the curved rib into the tank, and to chamfer the ends of the rib. Alternatively, the backhead could be fixed only to the upper cab so that both detach together.

We do not recommend the fitting of a flywheel to the upper motor shaft. Unless perfectly balanced, it is likely to cause premature wear in the motor bearings. If a flywheel is fitted, it will need to be angled to clear the interior of the saddle-tank. The flywheel must not be larger in diameter than the motor if the body parts are not being made detachable (see above), and removal of the motor through the frames is to remain possible.



This pack contains metal handrails and knobs to replace the moulded parts # 3, 4, 5, 11.

The pre-drilled holes in the tank mouldings for parts # 4 and # 5 may need to be enlarged slightly to accommodate the metal handrail knobs. Sand over the holes to remove any raised burrs, so that the knobs can sit flush.

The longer length of handrail wire is first used as an assembly aid. Slide the knobs for one handrail along it and tape the ends to avoid losing them. Locate each one in position and tape over it with masking tape to hold it in place. Now apply rapid-set epoxy adhesive or "Milliput" inside the tank to retain the knobs. When set, withdraw the long wire and repeat for the remaining handrails.

Slide in the shorter pieces of wire, which have been cut to the exact lengths. Apply a little superglue on a needle to fix them in each knob.

Or, for a neater result, cut or file them a fraction shorter, so that they reach only to the centre of the end knobs. Fill the exposed hole in each end knob with a speck of "Milliput" or other filler. When set, sand the filler to match the round profile of the knob. No other wire fixing should be needed.

The longer length of wire can now be used to form the grab rails, parts # 3 and # 11. Cut and bend them to shape, using the moulded parts as a pattern. Fix them in place using rapid-set epoxy adhesive.


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